zapatistas

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San Cristobal to Palenque

There’s a bit of talk around the drive from San Cristobal to Palenque being a little sketchy and we had heard reports of ‘compulsory contributions’ but we are both into some of the Zapatista theories anyway so decided to carry ten bucks each—so we could donate if we were stopped. The drive was uneventful apart from the 127 topes to Ocosingo in the first hour and a half and he awesome colour of the water in Agua Azul. If you plan to drive highway 199 leave early, give yourself at least five hours and take it easy.

We stayed in the cheapest place we could find in El Panchan, good food, real hippies and about fifteen minutes walk to the ruins of Palenque. The ruins are pretty cool and very well maintained with easy walking trails and an impressive site museum. Drove from Palenque to Chetumal the next day to sleep over before our border cross into Belize. immediate constipation relief

San Cristobal de las Casas is an absolutely charming town set in the highlands of Chiapas. It was a surprise to come into this colonial town after spending the previous two weeks on the beach and we were caught scrambling for warmer clothes as we pulled in.

The Spanish founded the settlement in 1528 but the area was a refuge for Mayan communities years before the Europeans even set foot in the area. Located right in the middle of deeply indigenous areas, San Cristobal is a place where modern life and Mayan rituals come face-to-face making it a must-see when traveling in Mexico.

And, of course, who isn’t the tiny bit interested in the Zapatistas. So far things have remained calm since the 1994 EZLN uprising took place but you can sure see their influence in the community and, perhaps, this is why there seems to be a relatively happy feeling amongst the community (or maybe not…depends whom you talk to). And, if you are interested, you can visit them…safely. A guide we met told us they were happy to receive tourists to promote better understanding of what the EZLN stands for since, as they say, the media portrays them unfairly. I was curious but we did not have enough time to visit, perhaps next time.

We found our parking lot and happily unloaded our things into the cutest little rental apartment ever. Not much to rave about on the outside but once inside we were happy to discover a fairy-tale like cottage complete with a small courtyard, big wooden furniture and a real fireplace!

The apartment we stayed in is one of three on the property and if you are looking for a place to stay in San Cristobal we would highly recommend it. Located about 3 blocks from the centre of town it has everything you could need including Internet. And if you have any questions just ask Bela, who owns the bed and breakfast next door, she has lived in the area for 15 years and is a very interesting lady.

We spent our time here mostly wandering around on foot and snapping photos. Well, that is not completely true we did quite a bit of shopping as the markets are full of indigenous crafts – we stocked up on adorable hand-made toys, shawls, scarves, leather products and a few other tidbits…now we just have to figure out where to put them all in the car!

We checked out two interesting museums, the Maya Medicine museum which explained the used of herbs, candles and health practitioners used by the indigenous community. Did you know if you are born with 6 fingers you are marked by god to be a healer?

Na-Bolom, the other museum, is the former home of Swiss anthropologist Trudy Blom and her husband, Danish archeologist Frans Blom. They explored the ancient ruins in the area and studied the Lancadon people of the Chiapas area. Today it is a support and research centre dedicated to protecting the indigenous cultures as well as the local environment. It has a great collection of photos, artifacts and a massive library. I was please to see that Trudy was a gal after my own heart as she had a very extensive collection of jewellery! You can rent rooms, volunteer and hold conferences at Na-Bolom.

A highlight of the week in San Cristobal was coming across a mariachi serenade while we walked home one evening. Traditionally in Mexico the young man calls in mariachis when he is proposing to his girlfriend. So cute! And the really drunk friends are pretty amusing as well.


Mariachi Serenade in San Cristobal from Kels M on Vimeo.